 How to Become a Professional Glamour Model*
By Danny Steyn – 9/6/1991
I wrote this article on how to jump
start your modeling career for a South African photography
magazine back in 1991, and I have recently edited it to make it
more current with the changes in photography and technology. As
for my advice, it remains the same today as it was back some 15
years ago. I am often contacted via phone and email from
prospective models wanting to break into the glamorous world of
modeling that they see on their TV's and movie screens. The
intention of this article is to educate prospective models on what
to do and what not to do, and about the reality of the modeling
industry.
Introduction
First of all, the advice I am giving you on how to
become a model is only one photographer’s opinion, but an opinion
that has served me well in the past 20 years being involved with
the launch of many successful modeling careers.
Every model agent, every photographer and every
model will have their own opinion and story of the best way to
 get
started, but there are many ways to become a model. You just have
to choose the right approach that works for you.
Ask lots of questions and learn from the people
around you, but don’t necessarily believe everything that you
hear. Some of the advice might have an agenda, and might not
really serve your best interests in getting started in a career as
a fashion or photographic model. Different models will have had
different experiences. Learn to sift through all the BS you are
likely to hear. And formulate your own plans and agenda.
And remember that there is an entire modeling
industry that is built around trying to make money from your hopes
and dreams of becoming a model, so tread gently and carefully and
keep your eyes and ears open. I will hopefully be able to shed
some light on the journey you are about to embark upon.
Gather information from professional models and
others in the industry.
If you know a professional model or have access to
a friend with modeling connections, pick their brains. Find
models, agents and photographers that have been in the industry
for some time. They will all have moved through their modeling
careers through a variety of routes, and they will all have as
many horror stories as success stories
 to tell you. They will have
lots of advice – some of it will be relevant and some of it will
be personal as it applied to them in their careers. So once again
I advise you to listen and absorb and then make up your own mind.
Everyone tells me that I need to start with good
photographs– why?
If you are going to go and see an agent,
photographer or talent scout, while you may blow them away and
make a great first impression, the minute you walk out of their
door, another stunning model is going to walk in and you will soon
be forgotten. Having a great photo, or comp card to leave behind
is the best way to make sure you are remembered after you leave.
And this is why it all starts with good photography.
How do I find a professional photographer to
shoot my first modeling photos?
As a professional photographer myself I am
constantly approached by models wanting to get photos for their
comp cards or portfolios. I also get referral work from modeling
agencies who feel that a prospective model might do better with
some professional shots in her book.
When approaching a photographer make sure that his
style of photography coincides with what you want to portray. If
you are dead set on high fashion catwalk work, then don’t go to a
glamour photographer – go to a fashion photographer. But if you
don’t fit the height requirements of a fashion model then you
should consider that glamour modeling is possibly what you should
be chasing and approach a photographer with credentials in the
field of glamour and print photography.
Always ask to see the photographers work. These
days this can easily be viewed on the photographer’s website. Do
you like his style of photography? Does he appear to be reputable
and is he a published photographer with clients whose names you
recognize?
What makes a good photographer? Obviously this is
an open ended question with thousands of permutations. But I would
recommend that you find a published photographer – that is a
photographer whose work is currently appearing in magazines and
commercials that you would like to be published in.
Professional photographers will always welcome you
bringing a chaperone or a friend on your shoots or go-sees. Beware
the photographer who insists you come on your own!
Why do you recommend that I use a published
photographer?
 Being published means that the photographer is
creating photographic work of a sufficiently high standard and
quality that magazines and clients are paying him to use his work.
There are thousands of photographers who have never had any images
published anywhere and using them to do your modeling portfolio
might not have the desired effect you were looking for. And most
importantly, published photographers are in the loop with magazine
editors, clients, make up artists, hair stylists, fashion
coordinators, and more especially they have access to professional
talent and modeling agents.
With this network, published photographers are
very quickly able to recognize if you have that something special
and often refer you to an agent that can accelerate your modeling
career. A professional photographer whose work is published on a
regular basis can give your modeling career a significant head
start. They might not be the cheapest, but in the long run, a
published photographer will save you a lot of time and money, and
will often help you start earning money much faster than a
non-published photographer.
My photographer suggested we do a TFP. What is a
TFP or TFCD?
 TFP is and acronym for Trade for prints. In this
exchange a model trades her modeling time in exchange for the
photographers shooting time and receives prints as a payment. TFCD
is an acronym for Trade for CD (as in compact disc) whereby the
photographer supplies the images to the model on a CD.
Generally TFP's and TFCD's are ways for
inexperienced and amateur models and photographers to both acquire
images for their respective portfolios without spending much in
the process. But if you are trying to break into the modeling
world and proceed with a modeling career, then it stands to reason
that you want a published professional
photographer who knows what
he is doing to take your model portfolio photos. Getting an
amateur to shoot your photos is a sure fire way to ensure that
your career remains amateurish and flames out before it has
started.
Experienced professional photographers generally
do not need your photos for their book. But you definitely need
their talent, expertise and experience to produce exceptional
photos for your book. And for this you should expect to pay their
professional photography fees / rates.
Always remember that ULTIMATELY, ONE GREAT PHOTO
can be the difference between a successful career and a failed
career. Never go for quantity - always chase the quality.
What is a Model Portfolio and what photos should
I put in my Model Portfolio?
A modeling portfolio is a book that you can carry
around with you that contains your modeling photos. Make sure
that
you only put your very best photos in your model portfolio. Your
portfolio is only as good as your weakest shot. If you only have 5
strong shots then only put five photos in your portfolio. Remember
– always quality over quantity and always leave them wanting for
more.
Decide what kind of modeling you want to do – high
fashion, glamour, fitness, health, lifestyle, etc. And then put
images that show you in those kind of settings.
Develop a great portfolio – always make a great
first impression. Choose a durable classy looking binder. Mix your
images – follow a good headshot (portrait) with a good full body
shot. Don’t put similar shots in your portfolio, for instance two
shots of the same look. Choose one, and discard the other. Mix
black-and-white with color shots. As you get better photos replace
your older photos with newer ones. Never just add photos. Always
keep your book limited to your best images. Always select images
that reflect the type of modeling you want to do. Keep it classy
and keep them wanting for more!
What is a Comp Card? (Z-Card / Zed Card)
 A Comp Card is a card with one or more pictures on
it, with your name, contact information and vital statistics:
Height, weight, hair and eye color, bust, waist, hips and dress
size. It’s called a comp card because it normally comprises
several images in a composition (composite). Very often your compcard will have a headshot on the front and several different
looks on the back. You can have a one-side or two-sided comp card.
The size of the comp card can vary but is typically in the 5x7"
range.
Comp cards are designed to be printed in mass so
that you can leave them with every agent, talent scout, and
photographer you meet, so that they have something permanent to
remember you by and also your contact information to get hold of
you in the future when they need you to come and get your first
paid modeling gig!
How do I go about getting my Comp Card?
Start off by finding a good photographer whose
work you like and admire. A photographer who regularly photographs
models. Book a model portfolio session with your photographer. Do
headshots and body shots in several different looks. Do as many
different looks as you can afford, and don’t be shy to experiment.
Often a photographer will see something in you that you did not
know was there. Take their direction – trust your photographer’s
eye!
A starter model portfolio session can cost
anything upwards from a few hundred dollars to several thousand
depending on the photographer and the amount of time you need.
From the shoot select the best images for your
comp card – never more than 5 or 6 at the most. Take them to a
local printer or email them to online comp card printers. They
will tell you want size and resolution they need. Your
photographer might also be able to arrange to have them done for
you or point you to a good local printer. Get 100-200 cards
printed. 200 Comp Cards should cost under $200. Most comp card
printers have templates and can advise you on the design and look
of your comp card.
Getting approached on the street or public place.
If a photographer or model agent / talent scout
approaches you on the street or in a public area and asks you if
you are a model or want to model, by all means take their business
card, number and details. Don’t offer out your own phone number
until you know who they are. Once again do your homework and check
up on the individual or agency and check that they are reputable.
I have approached many a new face on the street or at the mall and
handed out my card. Sometimes I just see something in a particular
face that catches my attention. Several of those individuals went
on to pursue successful modeling careers. Photographers
(professional photographers) know what they are looking for and
often it might be something that you have – you just never know.
How do I succeed as a professional model?
There is no substitute for hard work and
commitment. As a professional photographer who works with hundreds
of models each year, both amateur and professional, I can tell you
that there is one thing that all successful professional models
have. And its not their stunning looks or awesome figure.
Sure it helps to be great looking and have a
perfect figure. But if you are lazy, don’t like make-up calls at
5:00am, show up late, don’t keep yourself in shape, start whining
because you are cold or hungry or tired, then believe me your days
in the professional modeling industry are numbered. Models that
succeed do so because they have a great attitude, on top of their
looks.
They show up on time, they are prepared, they
answer their phone, they return their missed calls, they get a
good nights sleep the night before, and they never complain no
matter how hard and unpleasant the shoot might be.
Remember that there are literally millions of
models with the same dreams of stardom that you have, that all
want to succeed at being a professional model. Those that make a
living from modeling work at it, all day, every day. It’s a job,
and sometimes it can be a grind. It might look glamorous from the
outside, but stand half naked on a snowy street in winter while
the photographer waits for a cloud to pass overhead, and see if
you can look sexy and sunny!
As far as I am concerned, having done this for
years, I would any day rather work with a not-so-pretty model with
a great attitude than a stunner with a prima-donna attitude.
If I want to be a fashion model how tall must I
be?
Fashion modeling is the most glamorous of all
modeling genres and commands the highest fees. The worlds
super-models command fees of several thousand dollars per day, but
unfortunately there are very few that are able to attain this
level, and thousands are knocking on the door every day. If you
are a female model and want to walk the runways of New York and
Paris, you will need to be at least 5’9” and taller. Male models
will be 6ft or taller.
Female fashion models will be approximately
34B-24-34, typically size 6or 7, and they are mostly under the age
of twenty five. Male models will typically wear size 40 regular
and have can be older.
There is an emerging trend in the industry to more
accurately reflect the body’s that exist in real life, and at
several recent fashion shows, plus-sized models were walking the
ramp along with their stick thin counterparts. Plus sized models
are usually 5'7" to 6'2" and wear size 12 to 14.
I am not 5'9" tall - can I still become a model?
Many models who do not fit the height requirements
for fashion and runway modeling do very well in other genres of
modeling. Girls with curvy figures can do well at glamour, pin-up,
and bikini modeling. More athletic types might find more success
as fitness, health and lifestyle models. And don't forget the
petite modeling and kids modeling genres.
The shortest girl that I had featured in a
magazine was a South African model at just 4'11" tall. All her
curves were in the right places and in perfect proportion to her
height, and she had a stunning angelic face, but because of her
diminutive height she couldn't even enter any bikini contests.
When we did her shoot, I carefully posed her so that there was no
frame of reference in the images and no-one could tell her height
from the photos. She went on to do very well as a sought after
glamour model, but always had to deal with the surprised look
whenever she walked into a photographers studio for the first
time! So take my word for it, height is not an issue in glamour
modeling, as long as you have the face and curves that make the
whole package work.
And remember that there are always exceptions to
the rules. No-one could have predicted the effect on the fashion
industry when Kate Moss broke onto the scene at 14 years old. All
the traditional thinking was turned on its ear. So don't get too
hung up on your shape or height. Use what you have got and make
the most of it. Hustle with what you got!!
 I am not particularly busty - can I still become
a glamour model?
I will be the first to tell you that I have had
several models grace the covers and centerfolds of some of the
worlds most prestigious magazines with nothing more than a 32A
cup! Remember that beauty is always in the eye of the beholder.
Every person is attracted to different things. Some magazine
editors prefer fit natural physiques, while others might prefer
more curvy models. In the early days of my photographic career,
when I first started shooting models for a South African men's
magazine, the editor had to pull me aside and tell me to stop
supplying them with flat chested, blonde haired models. Without
knowing it I had been shooting girls that I found attractive. The
editor woke me up and made me realize that I had to shoot the
entire spectrum of models from short to tall, thin to thick, flat
chested to top heavy, blondes brunettes redheads and everything in
between. And I learned my lesson well. Look at the images on this
page and you will see the complete spectrum well represented!
Can I become a parts model?
There are models who have particularly beautiful
parts and make a living as a parts model. This could be your hair,
hands, feet, or eyes. Not all models with stunning faces have
great feet or hands. Hand and ear models work mainly with
photographers that specialize in jewelry photography. Smooth young
skin is vital, as are ears with a minimum of piercings. This
specialized work is not always available - look for a photographer
or agent who specializes in it.
What kind of model fees can I expect as a model?
We have all heard of the super-models making
thousands of dollars for a few hours work. Work that commands that
sort of model fee is few and far between. The amount that you will
receive is governed by the value that the client places on your
ability to give them that look that they are after. If you are
absolutely critical to the success of their
product, brand or
marketing campaign, well then you can expect to command
astronomical model fees. But if your look is fairly common place
and many models can nail the look they are going for, well then
supply and demand ensures that your model fees are going to be
somewhat more normal.
In South Florida brand new models with the right
looks starting out making around $75 - $100 per hour and up,
depending on the work and the client. In several cases I have paid
$250 an hour for an outstanding model for a specific client. After
a long day’s shooting with a great model and a top shelf client I
have paid out model fees in the rage of $1,200 to $2,000. Not bad
for a days work, but believe me they earned it. And not all my
models make that kind of money. In fact many models pay me to take
their portfolio and Comp Card photographs. They come to me because
of my experience and connections in the field of modeling. Often
those models that get their first ever portfolio shots done with
me come back to model for me on paid assignments later on in their
careers.
Model Agents and Model Agencies
Here in Florida, talent agents, model agents and
modeling agencies all have to be licensed. This is to stop the
ruthless scam artists from preying on naïve guys and girls wanting
to break into the modeling world. Find yourself a reputable
modeling agency that is licensed and that has a great reputation.
Check on their status through the Better Business Bureau. type in
"model agency scams" into Google and see if your agent has any bad
history that give you reason to go elsewhere.
Call up the agency and make an appointment to meet
with their talent scout. Model agencies are always scouting fresh
new models. You might have exactly what they are looking for. Be
well prepared – do your hair and makeup and keep your clothing
simple. If you have a portfolio already, take it with you. Walk
into their offices with a positive attitude.
How do I find local modeling agencies or talent
scouts?
Start off with the yellow pages, or try your
search online. If you are doing a search in Google or other search
engine use strings like “model+agency+fort+lauderdale”. The use of
the + and “ characters ensures that you only get relevant results
from the local area that you typed in. Do not call model agencies
in South Florida if you are based in Seattle. There are also many
online modeling forums and modeling communities where you can post
questions and get advice from other models starting out just like
you.
How should I approach a modeling agency?
 Get yourself into shape, exercise, diet and clean
up your complexion. Call the modeling agency and book a visit and
go and see them. If you have some good photos or a model
portfolio, take copies of them with you. Obviously if you have
tear sheets, add them to your book as well – every model agency
wants to see what work you have done already, if any.
Your photos don’t have to be professional but they
should be the best you have taken. One shot must be a clear head
shot showing your bone structure and facial features. The other
should be a full body shot revealing your type of body. Not nude,
not necessarily a bikini, but just something that shows your size
and body type. Be prepared to leave the photos with the agency so
do not take your originals.
Do not give up if you are rejected at the first
agency. Do not go home and wait for a call-back from an agency.
Keep on hustling and go see as many model agencies and talent
scouts as you can find. For one agency you might not represent
what they are looking for, but for the next who knows, maybe you
have that perfect look for their clients national advertising
campaign! Don't be scared to ask the agency for advice and
constructive criticism.
How do I know if a Model Agency is reputable?
Reputable modeling agencies will be in modeling
hotspots, generally close to the action. Very often in high rent
neighborhoods. Always do your homework. Check that the agency is
reputable before you waste your time. You can even ask other
models about their experiences with the agency.
 But also realize
that models who might not have got work through them might have a
different perspective than one who gets regular work. So as I said
before, be prepared to listen and digest all the comments and make
up your own mind.
If any agency tries to charge you to register with
them, walk away and do more homework. That is definitely not a
good sign. They should never be asking for money up front. It’s
possible that they might suggest that you go and get some photos
taken and come back later with them, but if they insist that you
absolutely have to use their photographer (who charges an arm and
a leg) now you are beginning to smell the faint aroma of a scam.
Move on and find another agency that isn’t going to rip you off.
How do I recognize a model agency scam?
 Modeling agency scams are unfortunately the rule
and not the exception. There are thousands of unscrupulous greedy
people hoping to capitalize on your dreams, insecurity and
ignorance. Keep your eyes and ears open.
In my opinion I would advise you to avoid modeling
schools - seldom do they ever launch any models careers - mostly
they take you money and fill your head with dreams and broken
promises. You can be three foot tall and three hundred pounds and
they will still tell you that you have that special look so just
sign up for the next class (Only $500).
If an model agency asks a registration fee, move
on. If a model agency insists that you do their classes, move on.
If a model agency insists that you use their photographer or
printer for your photos, move on. Find your own photographer and
pay him directly. Take your images to your own printer to get your
enlargements for your model portfolio. Get your own printer to
make your comp cards just the way you want them made.
If a model agency promises you that they can get
you work when they have just met you, move on. It takes time to
see how you move how you come alive in front of the camera, or how
you walk down the catwalk.
How much of my Modeling Fee does an agency keep?
Most model agencies will retain between 20 and 25%
of your model fees to pay for their services. Never begrudge your
agency their fee. Ideally you should be encouraging them to make
as much money as possible by keeping you booked as much as
possible. Great model agencies get their top models booked
frequently, making a lot of money for both the model and the
agency at the same time.
Should I sign an exclusive contract with a model
agency?
When you are starting out, keep your options open
and avoid signing any exclusive model representation agreements.
However, once you agency starts landing you work, they have every
right to seek an exclusive arrangement and if its in your best
interest, then go ahead and sign it. As with all contracts, get
your attorney to look it over before signing it. If the terms are
acceptable then go ahead and sign up with your agency. Always keep
and safeguard copies of all you contracts that you sign.
What is a Model Release and why must I sign it?
Model releases are legal documents that assign the
right to the photograph to a particular person or entity. Any
published image that is taken (except in a public arena) must be
accompanies by a signed model release before it can published.
Your photographer will always ask you to sign a model release
before or after the shoot.
Any final words of advice as I start my journey
to become model?
Please remember that what I have written above is
purely my personal opinion, one formed over 25 years working in
professional photography with both amateur and professional
models. If you take the time to listen to many opinions from
models, photographers, model agents, hairstylists, makeup artists,
and talent scouts, you are sure to have enough good, raw unbiased
data to formulate your own opinions.
Don't blindly follow those ahead of you. March to
your own drummer. Do it with your own style. Make yourself unique.
You have a much better chance of getting ahead if you are true to
yourself.
I wish you best of luck in your pursuits - both in
the modeling industry and life itself. Don't hesitate to drop me
an email at
info@adeptglamourphotography.com
if you found this article helpful or inspiring.
* How to Become a Professional Model by Danny
Steyn - originally written in 1991 (edited and adapted in 1995)
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